My first surfing trip was quite accidental, actually --- my friends and I went to Calaguas Island in Camarines Norte, then decided to go wakeboarding in Camarines Sur; but, at the last minute, decided to go to Bagasbas for surfing... an unexpected check to my lengthy and ever-growing bucket list.
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| Bagasbas Beach, Camarines Norte |
In Bagasbas, I was less than thrilled when I saw the the beach.
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| Bagasbas Beach |
For one thing, the sand is gray. For a beach lover like me, it hardly qualifies as a place that I would go for beach bumming; and as a surfing newbie, I imagined coconut trees, white sand, the bluest blue water when I finally try to hit the waves.
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| Surfing lessons at Bagasbas Beach |
But as soon as we stepped on the sand and the briefing started, I was getting more and more excited.... and petrified. (what if the fins hit me on the head? what if I slipped, hit the board, and lose my teeth?)
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| Surfing lessons at Bagasbas Beach |
At the shore, the instructor counted 1 to 3. At 3, we were to stand on the board --- a test to separate the regular footed (the right foot first) from the goofy-footed (left foot first).
I am regular footed. We were paired off with our instructor --- and there, I got my first surfing instructor, Cristina.
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| Surfing lessons at Bagasbas Beach |
We quickly maneuvered the surfing board to waist-deep water. Then, she asked me to lie on my stomach on the surf board. Count of 1: I should place my hands on the board beside my chest. Count of two: push myself up the board. Count of 3: stand up on the board, while keeping low.
First try: I was wiped out even before I got to stand. Second try was no better. I was getting frustrated. I don't know how many minutes have passed but I didn't want for the hour to end without at least getting to stand on the board.
Good thing, Cristina was the most patient instructor anyone could find. After every failed attempt, she told me what I was doing wrong: I stood up too soon, I stood up too late, I was not in the middle of the board, I should keep low, not straight up. And then, she said:
Relax. Learning something new takes a lot of balls. You're on the right track.
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| Surfing lessons at Bagasbas Beach |
Soon, I noticed a few things --- count 1 (placing my hands on the board beside my chest) is like chaturanga, a four-limbed staff yoga pose. Count 2 (pushing myself up the board) is like upward facing dog. Count 3 (standing up or more like squatting on the board) is like the garland pose or a warrior II yoga pose.
As soon as I translated the new concepts in terms I know by heart, I got more comfortable. On my next try, Cristina pushed the surfing board and just as I heard her shout "3," I stood up and rode the waves until the shore.
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| Surfing lessons at Bagasbas Beach |
The feeling was unreal. I was ecstatic. I gave a loud scream and a few booty shakes. When I looked over at Cristina, she was throwing her hands up in the air and shouting, "YES!" We were like a couple of Lysistratas who found the key to end the Peloponnesian War.
There were a few tries when I was still wiped out, but more often than not, I got to surf until I reach the shore.
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| Surfing lessons at Bagasbas Beach |
By the time the lesson finished, I got an invitation to stay over (free lodging and surfing board rental; I only have to take care of my transpo and food while I'm in town) from Cristina and a praise from her mom:
"you're a natural surfer!"
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| with friends after surfing in Bagasbas Beach |
If that isn't enough to get you hooked, I don't know what will.
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| with friends for a surfing trip in San Juan, La Union |
So months later, my friends and I found ourselves in San Juan, La Union.
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| Surfing at San Juan, La Union |
August in San Juan was not a very good month for surfing. We were like dried fish on the surfing board, waiting for waves to come. But the sea was largely flat and what few waves we had, surfers scrambled to ride them.
I was getting frustrated. I wanted to ride the waves but my frustration was making it harder for me to keep my balance. So I got wiped out more often, which in turn fueled my frustration.
Eddie, my instructor at that time, told me a valuable lesson:
you'll always be wiped out, but the important thing is to
ride the board again and paddle back up. And wait for the next one.
The right wave will come.
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| Surfing at San Juan, La Union |
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| Surfing at San Juan, La Union |
I made a conscious effort to relax, and not to approach each wave with gritted teeth. Soon, the magic was back. I was riding the waves --- or more like bumping into fellow surfers...but I was assured that I could still maintain my balance and lessons in Bagasbas were not lost.
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| With friends during a surfing trip in Baler, Quezon |
A couple of months later, we went to Baler, Aurora --- the place to go if you're from Manila and you want to be take surfing seriously. There, I met Boy2, a real daredevil and a storm surfing enthusiast.
By then, I already know how to stand. My paddle was pretty weak, but I already have an idea how to do it. Problem was, I still didn't know when to stand and what to do when I'm already up. It felt like the waves were still propelling me to whichever direction, not the other way around.
That's where Boy2 came in handy. He told me: Look at the swell. You can tell which one to ride. Once you're up, if you notice the front of your board is sinking deep into the water, bring your weight back. If you notice it up too high, bring your weight forward.
Feel it. You'll know what to do.
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| Surfing at Baler, Quezon |
So that's what I did. Before the session was over, I was doing cross steps on my board.
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| Surfing at San Juan, La Union |
Back in Manila, I was getting uneasy and hankering to get back on the surfing board, so I took another trip to San Juan, La Unionl. This time, on my own.
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| Surfing at San Juan, La Union |
I met Alberto, a late bloomer in the world of surfing. He's already nearing his 50s and got to surf only a few years back. He didn't teach me much, except to work on my paddling (so I could take on the waves alone) and that
it's never too late to teach an old dog new tricks. Learn. Everyday. Every time you can. Grow.
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| Surfing at Bali, Indonesia |
Now, after solo trips and surfing vacations done on a whim, I ventured into an unfamiliar coasts --- in Bali, Indonesia.
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| Surfing at Bali, Indonesia |
I paddled to a spot just before the waves break, and looked at the swell that began to form. I paddled just as the swell was about 5 meters behind me, stood up as soon as I feel the waves pulling me and cruised... I looked behind me and brought my weight to the right so I could trim the left pull waves...looked straight and felt myself float...this must be how the seagulls feel as they fly over the sea to dip their claws on the water --- flying and swimming at the same time. Then I got wiped out.
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| Surfing at Bali, Indonesia |
I came up and pulled my board so I could paddle back. I looked over at another surfer near the shore. He gave me a thumbs up. I nodded my head in gratitude. There pass a secret message only those within the circle could understand: the solidarity of conquering a force of nature.
And, I realized, I am a surfer, at last.
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| Surfing at Bali, Indonesia |
Funny how, in retrospect, I noticed surfing lessons don't only apply to surfing. And like most things in life, the more you know, the more you realize there's a lot more to learn.
Cheers!
